Analyzing the Materials' Genetic Fingerprint
The pandemic propelled the advancement of many technologies including the push for testing technology. We are all familiar with the nose swab COVID-19 test, where you twirl the swab in your nose then place in it a tube containing a specific chemicals and enzymes.
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This nose swab test is a PCR test, which stands for polymerase chain reaction test. We have been using the test to detect the presence of the virus’s genetic material to determine whether an individual has or has had COVID-19, but the test can detect genetic material from any organism using a machine called a thermal cycler. The sample undergoes multiple heating and cooling cycles to amplify the amount of the targeted genetic material.
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How does this topic pertain to fashion?
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Fashion brands may not have extensive knowledge of their supply chain beyond tier 1 and not know the origin of the natural materials used in the garments. As previously discussed, the lack of supply chain transparency and knowledge is an issue, especially if the brand makes sustainability claims. Even if brands, particularly smaller brands and designers, know the origin of the materials, tests will help them verify the genetic makeup of the materials. The PCR test will analyze the genetic fingerprint, which is unique to the geographical area. Tests will also show that a product is coming from an organic-certified supplier.
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How can brands test synthetic fibers?
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Haelixa, a Swiss technology company, developed a DNA tracing technology that works on synthetic fibers as well as organic fibers. The markers do not impact quality, processability, or the sustainability footprint of the materials.
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The data will help brands build trust with consumers as well as environmental and human rights activists and organizations by proving the brand’s actions support the communication regarding sustainability and ethical practices. The data will also hold supply chain participants accountable. Supply chain transparency is crucial for risk assessment and mitigation and should be part of a brand’s issues management plan. Ethics, honesty, and sustainability need to be part of brands’ DNA rather than a buzzword. Consumers and government agendas are increasingly demanding accountability across the complete value chain and holding brands directly responsible for violations that occur within their supply chain. When the U.S. government banned cotton from the Xinjiang region, brands had to face importing obstacles when they failed to verify the origin of the material. Brand reputations are also tarnished when brands’ supply chains are linked to human rights violations. Verifiable and traceable data is crucial when building credible product claims, especially in an industry that the public heavily criticizes the industry for the lack of transparency of supply chains, extensive use of resources, and contribution to the global waste and climate crises. Traceability also offers suppliers and brands a competitive advantage.
The reliability of digital tools such as blockchain technology depends on the reliability of the uploaded data. The blockchain alone could not detect if a textile or garment is blended or exchanged across intricate supply chains. However, brands could experiment with ways the data could be included in the product passport.
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